These armwarmers have a striking ribbed pattern that wraps around the forearms. The ribs radiate outwards from the inside forearms and come together again on the backs of the forearms. The thumb shaping grows cunningly out of the radiating ribs.
My dear friend Mary collects tattoos, including many bold and fabulous designs on her arms. Mary needed an equally bold and fabulous set of armwarmers to complement their dramatic body art.
There is a Ravelry pattern page for Marywarmers, where you can see many versions created by other knitters.
This pattern was originally published in the February 2009 issue of Australian Knitting magazine.
Specifications and requirements
Size: To fit an average adult’s forearms, wrists and hands. The armwarmers are 29 cm long and comfortably fit wrists up to 20 cm around.
Tension: 30 st over 10 cm, measured over stocking stitch. Exact tension is not essential, because the ribbing pattern is very stretchy.
Yarn: Originally knit with 2 balls (2 x 50g) Maizy by Crystal Palace Yarns; however, this yarn has been discontinued. Any fingering weight yarn with some elasticity should be fine. If you’d use it to knit socks, you can use it to knit Marywarmers. Ravelry lists some yarns that others have used.
Tools: To make these armwarmers, you need the following tools:
- 2.5 mm knitting needles (set of 4 or 5 DPNs, two circulars, or one long circular, depending on your preferred method of knitting in the round), or size required to achieve correct tension
- 1 stitch marker
- stitch holders or waste yarn for holding the thumb stitches
- large-eyed blunt sewing needle for finishing.
Skill level: This pattern is suitable for an advanced beginner, preferably with some experience working in the round.
Specific skills: To make these armwarmers, you need the following skills:
- working in the round (with DPNs, two circulars, or magic loop)
- picking up stitches (for thumb).
- cm: Centimetres
- CO: Cast on
- DPNs: Double-pointed needles
- K: Knit
- K2tog: Knit 2 stitches together
- M1: Make 1 knitwise: pick up the loop between the stitches on the left and right needles, place the loop on the left needle, knit through the back of the loop
- M1P: Make 1 purlwise: pick up the loop between the stitches on the left and right needles, place the loop on the left needle, purl through the back of the loop
- P: Purl
- P2tog: Purl 2 stitches together
- PU: Pick up
- S: Slip
- SM: Slip marker
- SSK: Slip slip knit: slip 1 knitwise, slip 1 purlwise, put left needle through front of both slipped stitches and knit off together
- st: Stitches
Follow these steps to work the left armwarmer.
Starting from the elbow end, knit a short section of straight 2×2 rib.
[table id=1 /]
Radiating rib pattern
Start the radiating rib pattern, increasing on the inside forearms and decreasing on the outside forearms.
[table id=2 /]
Left thumb gusset
At the wrist, start adding extra increases for the thumb gusset.
[table id=3 /]
Left thumb gap and join
Place the thumb stitches on a holder.
[table id=4 /]
Continue knitting straight 2×2 rib for the rest of the hand until the cast-off just above the knuckles.
[table id=5 /]
Pick up stitches for the thumb and work in straight 2×2 rib to finish.
[table id=6 /]
Work the right armwarmer the same way as the left, except for the thumb gussets.
Plain cuff and radiating rib pattern
[table id=7 /]
Right thumb gusset
[table id=8 /]
Right thumb gap and join
Work this section in in straight 2×2 rib pattern as for plain cuff, except where otherwise indicated.
[table id=9 /]
Hand and right thumb
[table id=10 /]
To make longer armwarmers that go all the way up to the elbows, work a longer plain cuff before switching to the radiating pattern. The straight ribbing of the plain cuff is stretchier than the radiating ribbing and you will be able to pull it further up the arm.
For shorter wristwarmers that only just cover the wrist, start the thumb gusset shaping at the same time that you start the radiating rib. You may even be able to squeeze a pair of wristwarmers out of 50g ball of yarn.
To fit thicker or thinner forearms, increase or decrease the total number of cast-on st in increments of 9 st.
This pattern is free for personal use. If you really love it, you can tip me on Ko-fi.
If you want to sell items you’ve created using this pattern, contact me to discuss licensing.